Saturday, September 12, 2009

Coffee break in Kemaman

By TIONG SUE LYNN (The Star, 9 September 2009)

I am naturally fair-skinned, so I envy those blessed with a sun-kissed complexion. This is why I make it a point to go on beach vacations at least once a year – to get a tan and avoid looking like a pak cham kai (steamed white chicken).

My favourite beach getaway is Perhentian Island and Redang Island, located off the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia.

Many people tell Rif and me that we are silly to drive all the way to the jetty when there are cheap flights available. What they do not know is the experience they miss when they fly, instead of drive, to Kuala Terengganu. I am not just talking about the sights. There is a great deal of food along the way that they will not get to try.

One of my must-stop places is Kemaman’s oldest coffee shop – the famous Hai Peng Kopitiam – in Jalan Sulaiman. Since we were there early on our way to the jetty, we stopped by on our way back.

It was almost 6pm but the shop was packed and we had to wait for a place to sit. I spied many people tucking into nasi lemak, toasted bun, half-boiled eggs and the customary cup coffee.

The place is old-school, with several grandfather clocks and antiques on display. At the shop’s middle is a round marble table with assorted kuih-muih, tapai, fried meehoon, nasi lemak and the outlet’s famed nasi dagang. Unfortunately, there was no more nasi dagang when we got there.

Rif and I ordered our regular drink, the Ice Blended Coffee Breeze (RM6.90) and toasted bun with kaya (RM1 per set). The rest of the gang, since it was their first visit here, followed suit.

The charcoal-toasted bun had two slabs of cold butter and was generously slathered with homemade kaya. Unlike the usual toasted bun, it had a crispy, almost biscuit-like exterior, while the inside was dense, yet fluffy.

As I bit into it, the bun cracked lightly and the semi-melted butter and fragrant brown kaya oozed into my mouth. It was so good, I contemplated ordering another set.

While the toast is good at Hai Peng, it is the coffee that keeps me coming back. The shop uses Colombian coffee beans, which boast a walnut-like undertone and a slight bitterness in taste, giving one a feeling of fullness in the mouth.

Colombian beans have a richer, more intense aroma compared to robusta. Due to their bolder taste, they make the best ice-blended coffee because their robust flavour and well-structured taste are not lost in the coffee-making process.

Hai Peng’s ice-blended has a Slurpee-like consistency which Rif and I like. It tastes much better than the “huge-bits-of ice-that-get-stuck-in-your-straw” ice-blended coffee served at some places.

Our coffee came with a biscuit stick topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. Every sip was smooth, slightly frothy and soothing to the throat. Perfect after a long day and, in our case, after a long drive from the jetty.

However, to truly enjoy the goodness of Hai Peng coffee, order the kopi panas (RM1.50) or kopi-o (RM1.50). You can smell the aroma of freshly-brewed coffee even from outside the shop.
The flavours of the beans teased my tongue with their rich, robust taste and divine aroma.

I closed my eyes and savoured each sip. Ahhhh ... this was one good cup of hot coffee!
I bought half a kilogram of coffee powder (RM17.50), hoping to replicate the coffee experience at home, but my brew tasted completely different from the one at the shop. Simply put, I did not like it one bit.

My coffee experience is never complete without two half-boiled eggs (RM1), and since I was pretty hungry, I had a few bites of Rif’s toast bread with special curry (RM6.90). It was merely toasted bun topped with a sunny side up and a scoop of potato curry on the side. The potato curry tasted similar to dhal, only spicier. Nothing great, but it was a good tummy-filler. The nasi lemak is not bad either, but since I was saving my stomach for dinner in Kuantan, I had to give it a miss.

The bill was RM61.70 for the six of us. Not cheap for a snack, but I reckon the ice-blended coffee is possibly the nicest I’ve ever paid for.

On the downside, I encountered the snootiness of the owner while paying the bill. When I politely requested an itemised bill, I was abruptly told: “No such thing. If you want, look at the menu and write it down yourself.”

Not wanting to waste time, I used my digital camera to snap photos of the menu so I could jot down the prices later. When I was doing so, the lady owner casually asked why I wanted the price list. When I told her it was for publication in The Star, her tone changed so quickly that it was comical.

As I was leaving, she told me: “I love your bag. It’s really stylish and the colour looks great on you.” My gang nearly burst out laughing, and I hope I did not accidentally roll my eyes at her.
Hai Peng Kopitiam is located at 3753 Jalan Sulaimani, Chukai, Kemaman, Terengganu (tel: 09-859 7810). It is open from 6.45am to 6pm.

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